Call me crazy, but theres just something great about sitting around a campfire with your friends sharing sugar and a swig. Front Runners List: Click to see list completion progress by climbers that log their climbs using Peakbagger.com. Glaciated dome on the canyon side, with Turret Creek (which was dry) on the left, The Piute Pass Trail finally got closer to Piute Creek and I began to seriously look for a campsite, now that I had water, My tent and campsite alongside Piute Creek I wanted to lie down but I still had chores to do, View from my campsite, at 9000 feet elevation, looking downstream. Spectacular scenery abounds, with tumbling waterfalls, flowing creeks, glittering lakes, stately forests, and imposing mountains galore. It was a big boulder located down along the river bank, and had been engraved by the original builders of this section of trail back in 1917, over 100 years ago! Goode, Bishop Lake, Jigsaw Pass. Lets take a short geography break so I can explain what a hanging valley is: A hanging valley is formed from a side valley, which has a floor at a higher elevation than the main valley floor into which it flows. contour 80 feet UTM zone 11 Customers Like You Also Purchased USA Highways Wall Map $10.95 Custom Radius Maps $175.00 Island Visions $39.99 Rides of a Lifetime: Southwest by MAD Maps $16.95 Our total hiking miles over 5 days was 41.8 miles then we caught the ferry for the extra couple. This famous combo-trail will be our path for the next 26.5 miles. Explore Evolution Valley - view hand-curated trail maps and driving directions as well as detailed reviews and photos from hikers, campers and nature lovers like you. Breathtaking landscapes. The North Lake-South Lake loop is the famous "Rainbow Trail" and includes spectacular scenery visiting such areas as Dusy basin, Le Conte Canyon, Muir Pass, Evolution valley, and Humphrey's Basin. After lunch was finished, I reluctantly put on my pack and continued hiking in the roasting sun. Yay! The climb up to Piute Pass was uneventful, passing a series of lakes on the way to the day's high point. One way for an adult is $15, round-trip $28; children 12 and under are $7 and $13. to North Lake Road, 20 mi to Pine Creek 856 110 to 114 SEKI - Goddard (28) Aspen Meadow & Goddard Creek Junction 851 to 855 114 to 121 SEKI - McClure Meadow (33) Evolution Valley, McClure, and Colby Meadows 845 to 851 121 to 127 SEKI - Evolution Basin (34) Evolution Lake, Wanda Lake, to Muir Pass 838.5 to . When Leor Pantilat's FKT for the Evolution "loop" came up in my news feed, I skimmed it and moved on, having other things on my mind. Completed 14-17AUG. But we didnt see any rangers. Next we go through Evolution Valley skirting Darwin Canyon, passing through Evolution Basin and crossing the Goddard Divide just before going over Muir Pass (11,855'). Thanks to Covid regulations, the signs posted trailside asked people not to visit unless it was an emergency, One of the signs mentioned a Bold, Aggressive, Large Bear that had been raiding food at the Piute Creek area exactly where I planned to stay that night! We hiked through Evolution Meadow and decided to stay a few miles away near the McClure Meadow Ranger Station (closed due to Covid-19). Absolutely beautiful the whole time! The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. There are possible campsites on Darwin Bench. Since we stopped for lunch here and the lake has no name I guess Ill call it Lunch Lake. $4,395: August 13-21. That night we enjoyed a campfire in Aspen Meadow since we were below 10,000 feet and there were already the makings for a fire ready to go! Their answers were vague, as expected, but they did say that there was definitely a spot a decent ways up the trail, but they werent great judges of distance. Bonner explored this area in 1895 while scouting a hikers route along the crest of the Sierra (it would eventually become the John Muir Trail). Quite a few creek crossings which were hard to avoid getting feet wet, but easily done. Our goal was Sapphire lake, but there was still a ton of snow over the 4th and we didnt have proper snow gear to cross over the pass from Evolution lake to Sapphire lake. 1993 . Do I really get to be here? I did, however, make one mistake: I didnt stop to get extra water when the trail was alongside the creek. Completed this loop South - North May 26-29. In addition, The John Muir Trail may be accessed via Piute Pass from North Lake which is only 10 miles from the resort. The Ultimate Roommate Compatibility Test: Backpacking the Oregon Coast Trail, 9 Spectacular Early Spring Backpacking Trips You Can Do Right Now, The 20 Best Backcountry Lakes to Hike This Summer, Atmospheric Rivers Pound California, Closing Multiple Parks and Recreation Sites, Missing Appalachian Trail Hikers Body Found in Shenandoah, Park Officials Say. Scale: 1:47,520 or inch representing 3/4 mile. From there, you head back west and up up up to Evolution Valley and then Evolution Basin - finally topping out at the summit of Muir Pass. Location: Northern Kings Canyon National Park Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. We hiked this loop from North to South Lake. I could see both up and down the canyon, and there was no shortage of glaciated granite in evidence. Evolution Valley elevation: 9,500 feet And it felt like it. After we got a bit past Summit Lake, we left the trail and headed to Lower Desolation Lake, Desolation Lake and Mesa Lake, where we camped for the night. Evolution Basin. Just what I didnt need. We had perfect weather, saw some incredible scenery and wildlife, and had an overall fantastic time! Historical side note: Evolution Valley was named by Theodore Solomons . We were usually finished hiking each day between 2-5 PM giving us plenty of time to enjoy the area. Oh well. There wasnt going to be much of a sunset from down in the canyon, so I went to bed early. At first the canyon was narrow, and the river had created deep channels to flow through. After descending into the valley, I noticed how hot it was. Many describe Evolution Valley as the most beautiful spot in Kings Canyon National Park. Finally, two ladies told me that there was a spot just ahead, right next to the creek! The canister is a whole lotta bulky but is worth its weight should a bruin decide hed like some chocolate with his berries. Conditions were great! While the passes were more challenging and toward the beginning going CW, we loved the direction we chose. This wasnt a trivial decision. Allow extra driving time to Florence Lake. I drank a lot of water. Oh, yes, this was heavenly! We would love to be back again sometime. The North Lake-South Lake loop is there High Sierra at its very best! classic Sierra beauty from the very start. The water was seriously cascading as it made its way over the steep edge of the valley, flowing downward into the South Fork San Joaquin River Valley, which I could see off the edge of space to the north. But the point is we were beat! Well, yeah, maybe then. Get surefire solitude in McGee Canyon (south about .5 mile back). Membership. The trail even flattened out to make my way easier. I am now a retired academic, so I was able, in all three trips, to exploit my college timing to hike in early September before the start of classes. Mather Pass . Youll find other good campsites on this knoll. Now I cant breathe for another reason. To win Best in Show our site sported a ledge, floating above a yakkety brook, Mt. Hundreds of feet of granite on one side, and beautiful open meadow on the other. 4 days 3 nights 2 passes had a great time. Even so, with campsites spread out along its length, the valley never seems crowded. I checked my GPS and discovered that I had hiked almost 15 miles today! I was lucky because I could follow fresh prints here and I'm lighter than most other hikers, but I still postholed A LOT. Hike down 6.6 miles to LeConte Canyon, which is a very beautiful, deep canyon with lush meadows and forests. best of luck and make sure you are prepared. By the time I was ready to hike I looked down at the tents below me on the shore of the lake and only one person had crawled out of their tent. Campsite 2: Just past the footbridge over Piute Creek, set up camp on these designated pads. But it was still too hot for climbing, I told myself. I didnt pay a whole lot of attention, Im sad to say, and even fewer photos. Either way takes you over 3 high mountain passes and through incredibly beautiful terrain throughout. The trail wandered along through the forest, not far from Evolution Creek, which was flowing peacefully and slow. No water issues at all--everything is flowing well. Tracked 40 miles total and we caught the ferry on the way in and out. It was uphill all the way, and there was occasional shade, as I had hoped, so I didnt get heat stroke or anything. Evolution Creek had already joined forces and the river was much larger. It was challenging but not impossible if you hike often. The first thing the trail did was cross the river on a wooden bridge, far upstream from its merging with Evolution Creek, so it was still relatively small. The trail starts at North Lake (9,276'), soon enters the John Muir Wilderness, and ascends to Piute Pass (11,423') in four steep miles. Campsites: Lake Georg, Long Lake, descent down from Dusy Basin, Helen Lake, McLure Meadow, Puite Canyon Trail, Summit Lake. Also included are North Lake, South Lake, Piute Pass, Evolution Valley and Lake Sabrina. Truthfully, I wasnt all that worried about a bear. Muir Pass snow is melting fast and maybe only 1.5 miles worth heading northbound and maybe 2 over towards Sapphire Lake. This is a popular trailhead for approaching the Palisades. When I walk through this area again, perhaps I will do the same so I can see it from another perspective. We decided to put in stakes about a mile and a half before Piute Pass on what I considered to be the Best in Show campsite winner. September after Labor Day was a great time to make this trip, as the crowds had thinned but the mild climate lingered. What a sight! I had heard from many thru hikers that Evolution Valley was the absolute best. The ferry was not running yet. We hiked most of eac day covering 10-12 miles per day. Day 4: Rest and explore. The Bishop Group is accessible from the South Lake Trailhead, either to Treasure Lakes, or Bishop Pass. I'll be going back next weekend into the Evolution Basin higher up. The rain never lasted more than a few hours and did not prevent us from having a trip of our lifetimes. Fantastic hike! A great spot! 3 trip report day 5-8: Lyell Canyon/Tuolumne Meadows to Red's Meadow Resort. Is there some exception for Evolution Valley? Day three Descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. From here, it's west and south down and into the epic Le Conte Canyon. We found several amazing campsites just off the east side of the trail that held us warm and protected from the wind. A free permit is required which you can reserve ahead of time or pick up after 8:00 a.m. at the White Mountain Ranger Station in Bishop, California. The map showed that it eventually merged into the South Fork San Joaquin River somewhere out of sight of the trail. Mostly True Stories of My Hiking Trips, a PhotoJournal. The river and steam crossings were simple because the water level is so low at this point in the season. It was challenging knowing exactly where to cross, we tried to find a place that looked shallow enough, however the water came up above my hips (Im 52) which was pretty scary because the current moved me quite a bit and the water was freezing! I told them to skip Oregon, because it sounded mostly like boring forest with no views, and a hiker named Strawberry told me that there was a thing called Oregon in Two Weeks which skips the lame parts. Tiny bit of snow on bishop pass was completely avoidable. Id see how I felt when I got to the the trail junction. Follow it 2.1 miles back to the trailhead. The SteriPen Adventurer has become popular because it is more reliable than earlier models. Emerson and Peak 12691. Oh well. I only had about a liter left of the three Id started with that morning. Campsite 1: Upper Golden Trout Lake. No smoke from the California wildfires. One downside though: it's freaking hard. Up until Sep 11th there was a shuttle service that we could have used to get from South Lake to the North Lake trailhead -- running a couple of times a day and costing $20. There must have been many more waterfalls on the way down, but, sadly, that wasnt part of my plan for the day. Did this hike in end of June 2020 but it was one of my favorites to date so want to leave a review. The metal bridge over Piute Creek marks the border between Kings Canyon National Park and the John Muir Wilderness. . Piute Creek Crosing: Bridge at Piute Creek Crossing: Layers: Western juniper, and its cones: On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time . My first suggestion is if you have seven days to make this trip, your body and spirit will thank you. John Muir Trail, Evolution Valley, and Goddard Canyon access point. Pictures posted. From there, the trail traverses Humphreys Basin and reaches the splendid section of the Pacific Crest Trail known as Evolution Valley. Good campsites can be found there also. Deer are seen occasionally. It is, of course, the perfect time for this 5 - 7 day hike. We headed over Piute Pass and into Humphreys Basin from the North Lake Trailhead. The mosquitos were relentless though. The trail includes one major unbridged crossing of Evolution Creek - often an exciting wade during the spring run-off - and three . It is a hard one but worth it. Fill up on gas at Prather or Shaver Lake. I recommend taking the ferry to avoid the lake hike; the view doesn't much change, and there's a lot of clutter around the lake campsites that take away from it. The benefits of hiking, more than you can imagine! Mosquitos were bad, but not horrible. I should just quit messing around and tape the thing to my face. Because of the late snowfall, we were graced with the continued presence of wildflowers, complimented by the beginnings of golden fall, as we skip-trah-lahed our way alongside crashing gorge waterfalls and the calm tracing of the San Joaquin River. After the narrows, the valley widened and there were many hot and sunny meadows that I trudged through, at least according to the map. Campsites: Good sites along Evolution Creek by Evolution Meadow, McClure Meadow and Colby Meadow. Lodging is available at Vermilion Valley Resort at Lake Edison and also at nearby Mono Hot Springs. I like bridges; what can I say? Why cant I breathe? So prepare rain And wind covering if comfort is a must. We are here: Evolution Basin Total Mileage: ~57 miles Total Elevation Loss/Gain: ~9,500 feet (a few hundred feet more gain than loss) Length: 6 days Trailhead: We started at North Lake at Piute Trailhead (~9,400 feet) Mountain Passes: Piute, Muir and Bishop Our camps were very high, all above 11,300', and we took two and a half days layover, hiking and exploring . 11/10/2022 - Expect . ~. I see no real advantage to hiking one way vs. the other. Some of the travel is cross country but fairly easy to navigate. The next morning we discovered more good sites at the west end of the lake. The trail is popular with day hikers and backpackers on multi-day trips to Humphreys Basin, Evolution Valley and beyond. While there are no 14,000 ft peaks in these groups the peak are high and majestic. Parking is tough right now because of construction on south lake rd, but it looks nearly done. My mood was improving by the minute! Life was good again. Those who use the SteriPen, or any other filter system, are wise to carry a backup such as Potable Aqua Water Treatment Tablets. Do you wish to share an stories about that particular spot? finished this in 5days avaraging 12miles a day. The Florence Lake Store carries basic food and camping supplies. Didnt know you needed a reservation to drive through Yosemite, so consider going through Sonora Pass (unless you go through after 4pm). Video of a waterfall on Piute Creek near my campsite in lower Piute Canyon. After 2.5 mile it crosses a bridge to the south side of the river where a good campsite is located. 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. We parked at Lake Sabrina, hiked up past the Tyee Lakes to South Lake and then completed the loop clockwise. Aahhh! Highly recommend spending time in McClure Meadow if possible on this hike. My AllTrails recording showed 59.4 miles at the termination point (South Lake overnight parking lot) with over 10,000' elevation gain. 4 trip report day 8-12: Red's Meadow Resort to Muir Trail Ranch. I left the trail to follow right along the creek, and took way too many photos and videos. Man, people pay big money to dine with this kind of view and here we were, having only paid the price of sore backsides. Here the trail climbs 700 feet of switchbacks to This is high country and we had a brief hail & wind storm as well as our coldest overnight stay (mid 20 degrees Fahrenheit). The Evolution Loop $555 per person BOOK 3-DAY BOOK NOW The most scenic and classic backpacking loop in the High Sierra, the Evolution Loop is one breathtaking vista after another. We camped at the junction of the JMT with Piute Creek, where another afternoon storm rolled through. 5 trip report day 12-16: Muir Trail Ranch to Onion Valley Trailhead. counter-balance method. Parking: A large parking lot for overnight trips is situated close to the lake. North to South Lake is the easiest way to go with passes not too difficult. Which didnt happen until I reached Piute Creek and the metal bridge that crossed it. Backpackers are really friendly and fun, so it was a good time. Some hike this route from the other direction, north to south. We remained on the JMT at the Goddard Canyon junction and continued up a series of switchbacks that led us to a stream crossing where we had to take off our hiking boots & put on our water shoes and continue towards Evolution Valley. At least there might be shade along this section, I thought to myself. For me, this was one of the most unforgettable moments. In the Spring of a snowy year it must be incredible. Tough climb over the pass at 11,423 and descended into Paiute Canyon where we connected up with the JMT. Piute Pass: Begins at North Lake. Piute Pass was comparatively easy with just a few snow patches. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. The trail distance from the junction of the San Joaquin River and Evolution Creek to the summit of Muir Pass is 15.4 miles / 24.8 kilometres (mile 113.2 to mile 128.6 in the Blackwoods Press John Muir Trail Atlas). Join Outside+ to get access to exclusive content, 1,000s of training plans, and more. There was still quite a bit of snow on the surrounding mountains and still ice in the lake. Evolution Lake has lots of excellent campsites. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. Many thanks to her for this great post and pictures! 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. Overnight temps didn't drop below 40 F. I like the big vistas so I think I would do the Lamarck Col Route from the North Lake Trailhead to Evolution Lake next time and skip Piute Canyon. Darwin via the class 3 West Ridge. Building anything out here must be quite the challenge. When Hikers Die, Why Are We So Quick to Judge. She was seriously considering it. When we crossed the river it was only about knee deep and also like to mention NO mosquitoes so we were super lucky. The final day we packed out. The trail is quite rocky in most places so slower than you might expect given the elevation profile. Only one water crossing (Evolution creek) that required getting your feet wet. Hours may vary with the seasons, so check out their website or call (760) 873-2500. The JMT headed off to the west before switchbacking its way down to the valley floor (700 feet of descent) while the creek simply dropped straight down over the side of the canyon. For trail conditions and more details about this hike, check out my YouTube Video I made from this backpacking trip on my channel: Kikis Adventures. Completed end of July 2022. The ferry was not running this early in the season. Imagine youre traveling on a moonscape in the protection of narrow corridors of granite with the imposing presence of two mighty peaks, Langille Peak and Black Giant, in your view. The hiking was challenging for us (22 year old girls), but we probably brought too heavy of packs. Pick up permit, eat at Burger Barn, head to, Day One Piute Pass trailhead over Piute Pass down through Humphreys Basin to, Day Two Hutchinson Meadow down Piute Creek to the JMT junction down along the San Joaquin River to the, Day Three Goddard Canyon Bridge Junction Up to Evolution Valley then into Evolution Basin and camp at, Day Four Sapphire Lake up to Wanda Lake then summit Muir Pass then down into Le Conte Canyon and camp at, Day Six Up over Bishop Pass and down to South Lake . We started at south lake and ended on north lake, backwards from most, and while Piute pass was a hard hike, i think ending on Piute and Humphrey's Basin was a great way to complete the trip. We hiked the whole way out the third day, back around the lake to the car. Shortly after passing Colby Meadow and reaching McClure Meadow, we were served the best views of The Hermit, a distinctly steep monolith, and Mt. Day four Rest and explore. Maybe if I waited a bit the sun would be at a lower angle as I headed north, so that the trees would have longer shadows for me to rest in. Mendel, which is part of the Evolution range. I hung out by the creek for an hour and a half, until 3pm. I hiked onward, rather than head back down. From the pass panoramic views extend west across Humphrey Basin to the distant peaks rising above the western side of the South Fork of the San Joaquin Valley. This is about the halfway spot. Multiple Ascents Grid: Click for a grid showing all of Chris Land The air seemed to be getting a bit cooler, so I packed up my stuff and headed out. The next morning, we went over Piute Pass and continued 10+ miles through beautiful Piute Canyon to Hutchinson Meadow. All in all, it had been another great day in the High Sierra. This trail is great for backpacking, birding, and camping, and it's unlikely you'll encounter many other people while exploring. Great Trip! What seemed like an irritating setback at the time, ended up giving us a chance to acclimate a bit before hauling ourselves, and 40 unaccustomed pounds, over Bishop Pass. My [growing] Collection of Top Utah Hiking Trails, Five ways to make enemies at a public campground, Seeking Powder Hounds: Heli-Skiing the Northwest. Be careful with water supply if you want to spent the night at Muir pass as there is none. Day 2: Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park). this is the one backpack trip I remember with my dad, friend and his dad.. in 1959.. Only a portion of our journey would actually be in Evolution, but the areas we passed through to reach and retreat from our intended destination were just as amazing. We had it easy in September, but Ive heard that earlier in the season hikers should be prepared for more difficult fordings. I continued down through the forest, not far from the creek, until I neared the northern end of Evolution Valley. Backpacking Has Changed a Lot Over the Past 50 Years. Plenty of camp sites a long the way. They are past the Muir Trail Ranch. the mouth of Evolution Valley. The Sierra Peaks Section was established in 1955. It was quite dramatic. Meadows and trees and waterfalls were on my menu. We were lucky with good weather. This loop begins and ends at the North Lake trailhead. Before last pass go to side trail golden trout lake to spend a night. During my summer as a volunteer wildlife technician in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, I spent my days trekking with a pack full of tracking equipment to survey animal populations. The normal crossing is not recommended now due to the higher flow, so people have been crossing upstream a bit. Definitely one of my favorite trips ever. straightforward trail. Pat was the captain of the ferry and Charlie ran the little store, nice couple. They finished up their meal and continued onward, while I read my book and watched the river go by. History. Once over Bishop Pass, we descended down approximately 5-6 miles to South Lake where we ended our journey. Western States Climbers Emblem Peaks Showing Kimberly Berg's first ascent dates for climbed peaks (0 out of 129, or 0%) I jumped up and pumped them for information. Slept like a drunken sailor. Challenging but absolutely worth it, forever in my memories. The year 2021 was certainly one of the driest in a long time, as it was early July and the hills were bone dry. I plan to get back there this month with A switchback climb below the Piute Crags, followed by traverse leads to Loch Leven. Well worth every step! Warm days in the upper 70s and the nights werent too cool either, even up at sapphire lake. Now that the best parts of the trek were over (quite possibly), I was beginning to yearn for home. Or bag flattopped Mt. Enjoy! It was breathtaking up there. 6.6 miles to South Lake where we connected up with the seasons, so check out website! 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